Is hydroxypinacolone retinoate as effective as retinol?

What is Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate?

Hydroxypinacopper retinoate, referred to as HPR, is a mixture of hydroxypinacolone and retinoic acid esterified.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoic acid ester (HPR) is a new type of retinoid, a third-generation VA derivative, a milder and more efficient super vitamin A, with anti-aging, acne prevention, whitening and spot removal, and regulation of epidermal metabolism. Traditional retinol esters need to undergo hydrolysis and two-step oxidation in the skin to become retinoic acid before they can exert their effects. The conversion efficiency is low, and increasing the dosage will cause irritation. HPR is an ester with retinoic acid as the substrate, which can directly exert its effects by stimulating receptors without metabolic conversion.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is an oil-soluble substance with good stability and permeability. It can promote skin cell metabolism, increase collagen production, and improve skin texture and elasticity. It also has antioxidant effects, which can reduce free radical damage to the skin, relieve pigmentation, and improve uneven skin tone. It reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improves skin's smoothness and firmness. It can also lighten dark spots and freckles and brighten skin tone.

What Are The Functions Of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate? 

Milder

Scientists compared the anti-aging and irritant effects of multiple vitamins A (including HPR, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate) in an in vitro model of human skin. The study found that HPR-induced inflammation (marked by IL-1α) was weaker than retinoic acid. At a concentration of 10 times, the cytotoxicity was even lower. Therefore, HPR is a more stable and gentler alternative to retinoic acid and can be used in cosmetics.

More effective

Anti-aging and anti-wrinkle

Using hydroxypinacolone retinoate-containing products, the dent volume, wrinkles and fine lines images collected locally from the subjects on days 0 (W0), 14 days (W14), and 28 days (W28) can be observed. After using the serum sample containing WL-HPR1130 for 2 and 4 weeks, the volume of dents at the corners of the eyes, wrinkles and fine lines of the subjects showed significant changes, showing a trend of reduction.

Promote keratin metabolism

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) can reduce pores, reduce skin roughness and make skin smooth and smooth by accelerating keratin metabolism, allowing keratinocytes to differentiate normally, and promoting the synthesis of interkeratin lipids.

HPR reduces the blockage of hair follicles through keratin metabolism, inhibits the secretion of oil by sebaceous glands, thereby reducing acne and acne, and achieving the suppression and elimination of skin inflammation. It can also accelerate the discharge of melanocytes and reduce the production of melanocytes through keratin metabolism, thereby achieving a whitening effect.

More stable

The researchers tested the photosensitivity of retinoids. Among all the tested vitamins, retinyl palmitate (Rpal) and beta carotene (βcal) were more susceptible to photodegradation and were almost completely degraded after a week of exposure to light. , while hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) only degraded 40% after one week. On average, light had the smallest effect on HPR stability of all the vitamins tested.

In short, hydroxypinacolone retinoate has a direct effect, can directly bind to retinoic acid receptors, has no conversion process, and has a fast onset of effect; its small molecular weight has the advantages of easier transdermal absorption, low irritation, high activity, and high stability. , not only is its efficacy better than traditional retinol, but it is also safer and has great application prospects.

What Is The Application Of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate?

Application of HPR in cosmetics

Pure HPR is a yellow crystalline powder. Common cosmetic raw materials are dissolved in dimethyl isosorbide and supplied in the form of solution. Dimethyl isosorbide is a colorless liquid that is both oil-soluble and water-soluble. It can dissolve free fat in the skin, so it can effectively penetrate the skin and enhance the delivery capacity of other ingredients in cosmetic formulas. It is suitable to be used with HPR.

Its main role in skin care products is as a skin conditioner, which can resist aging, reduce sebum secretion, and lighten epidermal pigments, thereby preventing skin aging, preventing acne, whitening and lightening spots, etc. HPR greatly reduces its irritation while ensuring the powerful efficacy of retinol, so it is widely used in skin care products for anti-aging and prevention of acne recurrence. In addition, due to its inherent micro-formic acid activity and no skin irritation, HPR is considered an effective alternative to ATRA esters and is suitable for all skin types.