Is ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate better than ascorbic acid?
What Is Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, also known as: VCIP, is an esterified Vitamin C derivative. It is also known as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, esterified vitamin C or fat-soluble vitamin C. It is a high-end vitamin C derivative. The reason is that its difference from the original vitamin C makes it superior. Vitamin C has good K oxidation, promotes collagen regeneration, anti-inflammatory, inhibits pigmentation, etc. However, vitamin C itself has poor transdermal properties and is unstable, so it is difficult to put it directly into the formula, so vitamin C derivatives are used, and VCIP is a very good one among vitamin C derivatives.It can inhibit intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin production, and has the effect of whitening and lightening spots. But it is worth noting that VCIP may fade under certain conditions, but it can still maintain stability at high temperatures.
Differences and advantages between VCIP and VC
VC: It has antioxidant, collagen regeneration, and melanin production inhibition effects, but it has poor transdermal properties and is unstable. It is easy to inactivate and oxidize and discolor. It is not so friendly to sensitive skin and is difficult to put into cosmetics.
VCIP: It is a more stable and gentle VC derivative. Oil-soluble substances have better transdermal properties and are absorbed quickly. Sensitive skin can also use it with confidence without worrying about tolerance.
Compared with traditional vitamin C, VCIP has better stability, higher transdermal absorption capacity, and oil-soluble skin-friendly properties. During skin absorption, VCIP can be converted into vitamin C to exert its functions, including skin lightening, promoting collagen synthesis, and inhibiting lipid peroxidation.
From a structural point of view, VCIP esterifies four bonds on the basis of the prototype vitamin C. Due to this characteristic, VCIP has many advantages over the prototype vitamin C:
High stability
VCIP has no antioxidant properties on the skin surface, but it can play a role after entering the cells, and it is highly stable and not easy to inactivate and deteriorate.
High transdermal absorption rate
VCIP is a fat-soluble ingredient, which is more easily absorbed by the skin than the water-soluble prototype vitamin C. At the same time, in the simulated skin test, the conversion rate of VCIP to vitamin C was as high as 84%, which performed well.
Strong mildness
VCIP is less irritating to the skin, and generally, sensitive skin will not feel irritated, so it has a wider range of applications. There is no need to worry about tolerance when using sensitive skin.
High efficiency
VCIP's high efficiency also comes from its fat-soluble properties, which can be effective at low concentrations and improve the conversion rate.
What Are The Functions Of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
1.Moisturizing
Ascorbic Acid tetraisopalmitate has excellent skin absorption and is decomposed into free vitamin C in the skin to achieve physiological functions. It can increase cell moisture content and effectively keep skin moist. In addition, ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate can also enhance the skin's own water-holding capacity, making the skin softer and more delicate.
2.Whitening effect
VC-tetraisopalmitate is a lipophilic vitamin C derivative that has excellent transdermal absorption properties when used in cosmetics. It can inhibit intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin production. Foreign scholars have evaluated the effect of VC-tetraisopalmitate on ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin pigmentation. After topical application, it can significantly inhibit the increase in intracellular peroxides after UVB irradiation and enhance cell response. Reactive oxygen species tolerance.
3.Antioxidant effect
As a cosmetic ingredient, VC-tetraisopalmitate can inhibit lipid peroxidation, has a similar effect to VC, is easily absorbed by the skin, prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging, and prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging.
4.Anti-aging effect
When the skin is affected by the external environment, free radicals will be formed. Free radicals will destroy the collagen in normal tissues, causing aging and fine lines and wrinkles. VC-tetraisopalmitate is decomposed into free vitamin C in the skin to achieve physiological functions. Vitamin C, as a powerful antioxidant, can effectively neutralize free radicals, thereby improving skin texture, reducing elastin deposition in photoaging, and promoting collagen synthesis.
What Is The Application Of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
In the food industry, it is widely used as an antioxidant and nutritional fortifier, which can significantly extend the shelf life of food, especially in foods rich in fat, such as edible oil, nuts, meat products, etc., by inhibiting fat degradation. The automatic oxidation process reduces the generation of harmful substances and ensures food quality and safety. In addition, as a derivative of vitamin C, it can also enhance the nutritional value of food, promote the body's absorption and utilization of iron, and prevent iron deficiency anemia. In pastry making, adding an appropriate amount of ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate can also improve the color and texture of the dough, making the finished product more attractive.
In the field of cosmetics, ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate is also very popular. Its powerful antioxidant capacity can effectively resist damage to the skin caused by the external environment, such as ultraviolet radiation, air pollution, etc., slow down the aging process of the skin, and keep the skin young. At the same time, it can also promote collagen synthesis, enhance skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate also has a certain whitening effect, which can inhibit the production of melanin, brighten the skin color, and make the skin brighter and whiter.
In the field of health care, ascorbic acid tetraisopalmitate, as a stable form of vitamin C, can be used to prepare a variety of tablets, capsules, etc., to provide the human body with necessary vitamin C supplements.